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	<title>Comments for Lens Diaries™</title>
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	<link>http://www.lensdiaries.com</link>
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	<lastBuildDate>Wed, 08 Feb 2012 20:24:15 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>Comment on Editing Photos vs. Photo Editing, Know the Difference by Leon King</title>
		<link>http://www.lensdiaries.com/photo-tips/editing-photos-photo-edit/comment-page-1/#comment-3634</link>
		<dc:creator>Leon King</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 08 Feb 2012 20:24:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.lensdiaries.com/?p=2867#comment-3634</guid>
		<description>Great article! As an &quot;advanced amateur&quot; this information enlightened and also let me know that I am on the right track. Also, in response to Alfie and the manufacturer&#039;s software, LR&#039;s develop module allows the user to selct the camera profile. I discovered that this has an amazing effect on the quality of photos. This is more than likely old news to all of you, though. Have a great day!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Great article! As an &#8220;advanced amateur&#8221; this information enlightened and also let me know that I am on the right track. Also, in response to Alfie and the manufacturer&#8217;s software, LR&#8217;s develop module allows the user to selct the camera profile. I discovered that this has an amazing effect on the quality of photos. This is more than likely old news to all of you, though. Have a great day!</p>
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		<title>Comment on Break The Rule In Midday Photography by rolandogomez</title>
		<link>http://www.lensdiaries.com/photo-tips/break-rule-midday-photography/comment-page-1/#comment-3633</link>
		<dc:creator>rolandogomez</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 08 Feb 2012 08:08:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.lensdiaries.com/?p=1091#comment-3633</guid>
		<description>No problem! Best of luck!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>No problem! Best of luck!</p>
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		<title>Comment on Break The Rule In Midday Photography by Sherlock</title>
		<link>http://www.lensdiaries.com/photo-tips/break-rule-midday-photography/comment-page-1/#comment-3632</link>
		<dc:creator>Sherlock</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 07 Feb 2012 22:52:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.lensdiaries.com/?p=1091#comment-3632</guid>
		<description>Thanks for the tips! I&#039;ll be shooting for the first time in front of water fountains on a lake with the family in front. I was looking for advice on how I could capture the water and clients without major blow out, or funky contrast. Wish me luck!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks for the tips! I&#8217;ll be shooting for the first time in front of water fountains on a lake with the family in front. I was looking for advice on how I could capture the water and clients without major blow out, or funky contrast. Wish me luck!</p>
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		<title>Comment on The 90-Percent Rule Of Lighting In Photography by rolandogomez</title>
		<link>http://www.lensdiaries.com/photo-tips/90-percent-rule-lighting-photographic-lighting/comment-page-1/#comment-3629</link>
		<dc:creator>rolandogomez</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 01 Feb 2012 21:35:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.lensdiaries.com/?p=3202#comment-3629</guid>
		<description>Don,

Thanks for the great information. Perhaps I should have been more clear, but my references for metering pertain more to using artificial lights, such as studio strobes. Obviously when I&#039;m shooting with natural, reflected light only, I meter in the reflected mode, not the incidental mode as reflected metering is more accurate in that type of scenario. Again, thanks for your input and I look forward to your future comments, Rolando.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Don,</p>
<p>Thanks for the great information. Perhaps I should have been more clear, but my references for metering pertain more to using artificial lights, such as studio strobes. Obviously when I&#8217;m shooting with natural, reflected light only, I meter in the reflected mode, not the incidental mode as reflected metering is more accurate in that type of scenario. Again, thanks for your input and I look forward to your future comments, Rolando.</p>
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		<title>Comment on The Worst Way To Gauge A Photo by Anonymous</title>
		<link>http://www.lensdiaries.com/photo-tips/the-worst-way-to-gauge-a-photo/comment-page-1/#comment-3625</link>
		<dc:creator>Anonymous</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 28 Jan 2012 17:23:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.lensdiaries.com/?p=2823#comment-3625</guid>
		<description>[...]  [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...]  [...]</p>
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		<title>Comment on The 90-Percent Rule Of Lighting In Photography by Don Becker</title>
		<link>http://www.lensdiaries.com/photo-tips/90-percent-rule-lighting-photographic-lighting/comment-page-1/#comment-3623</link>
		<dc:creator>Don Becker</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jan 2012 02:02:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.lensdiaries.com/?p=3202#comment-3623</guid>
		<description>Rolando,

While I agree about the 90% black/white reflectance you discussed, I kept looking for a way to simply utilize that information... and maybe I am just slow, but I didn&#039;t find it.  

In my photography teaching of studio lighting, I tell students to take an incident light leading at the subject position, to get an overall scene exposure.  Then take a reflected light reading (using ambient light is fine) off the subjects skin, usually the forehead, and compare that reading to 18% gray.  If the reflected light reading is more than 1/3 to 1/2 stop different than 1 stop lighter than 18% gray, the overall scene exposure needs to be modified so that the reflected light reading off the subjects skin is approximately 1 stop lighter than the original scene incident light reading.  This provides an exposure which will yield good shadow detail in both the highlights and the shadows, for both caucasian subjects and people of color.  The final scene exposure is  then the modified incident light reading at the subject position.  The final skin tone of the subject can then be decided during the printing process or the computer manipulation of the final image, but you now have sufficient detail in both highlights and shadows to make any corrections you desire.

The background tones are then determined by making an incident light measurement of the background paper or material.  Pure black paper will reflect 2 stops less than 18% gray, pure white paper will reflect 2 stops more than 18% gray.  For a pure black background, subtract background light (change light angle, flag the key light, or move subject farther away from background) to provide 3 and 1/2 to 4 stops LESS reflectance from the background than the incident light on the subject, keeping in mind that 1 and 1/2 stops less light on the background when added to the 2 stops less reflectance of the black paper will provide the 3 and 1/2 stops less reflectance needed to get a solid black.  

Conversely, add enough background light to a white paper background to provide a 3 to 3 and 1/2 stops more reflectance off of the white background, compared to the incident light on the subject.  Again, keep in mind that 1 stop more light falling on the white paper background plus the 2 stops more reflectance from the white paper (when compared to the subject) will provide the 3 stops lighter background necessary to have it photograph as pure white.  (Note:  The background reflectance should never be greater than 3 and 1/2 stops more than the subject, or the white paper can become a light source in itself and create flare in the camera lens, leading to degraded image characteristics which look like a fog over the entire image, but primarily affect the blacks and dark tones.

Of course, for intermediate tones in the background, interpolation of the above can be used to obtain any tone background desired.

I did really enjoy your discussion of the use of white and black V-flats for manipulation of the edge characteristics of the subjects.  I often use 4&#039;x6&#039; V-flats both in both white and crumpled aluminum foil covered  versions, as both reflectors and large flags.  The use of black V-flats for edge modifications for high key lighting is intriguing and will be tried.  My technique of getting a similar effect is to use a large 7&#039; diameter umbrella directly behind the photographer as the key light (but elevated somewhat, with the center of the umbrella at approximately the photographers head), with no fill light.  That does an excellent job of creating the darker edges on the body/figure.

Many thanks to you for your outstanding articles and links!

Don Becker
http://www.donbeckerphoto.com
and
Faculty member and Technical Director
Washington School of Photography
Bethesda, MD 20814
http://www.wsp-photo.com</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Rolando,</p>
<p>While I agree about the 90% black/white reflectance you discussed, I kept looking for a way to simply utilize that information&#8230; and maybe I am just slow, but I didn&#8217;t find it.  </p>
<p>In my photography teaching of studio lighting, I tell students to take an incident light leading at the subject position, to get an overall scene exposure.  Then take a reflected light reading (using ambient light is fine) off the subjects skin, usually the forehead, and compare that reading to 18% gray.  If the reflected light reading is more than 1/3 to 1/2 stop different than 1 stop lighter than 18% gray, the overall scene exposure needs to be modified so that the reflected light reading off the subjects skin is approximately 1 stop lighter than the original scene incident light reading.  This provides an exposure which will yield good shadow detail in both the highlights and the shadows, for both caucasian subjects and people of color.  The final scene exposure is  then the modified incident light reading at the subject position.  The final skin tone of the subject can then be decided during the printing process or the computer manipulation of the final image, but you now have sufficient detail in both highlights and shadows to make any corrections you desire.</p>
<p>The background tones are then determined by making an incident light measurement of the background paper or material.  Pure black paper will reflect 2 stops less than 18% gray, pure white paper will reflect 2 stops more than 18% gray.  For a pure black background, subtract background light (change light angle, flag the key light, or move subject farther away from background) to provide 3 and 1/2 to 4 stops LESS reflectance from the background than the incident light on the subject, keeping in mind that 1 and 1/2 stops less light on the background when added to the 2 stops less reflectance of the black paper will provide the 3 and 1/2 stops less reflectance needed to get a solid black.  </p>
<p>Conversely, add enough background light to a white paper background to provide a 3 to 3 and 1/2 stops more reflectance off of the white background, compared to the incident light on the subject.  Again, keep in mind that 1 stop more light falling on the white paper background plus the 2 stops more reflectance from the white paper (when compared to the subject) will provide the 3 stops lighter background necessary to have it photograph as pure white.  (Note:  The background reflectance should never be greater than 3 and 1/2 stops more than the subject, or the white paper can become a light source in itself and create flare in the camera lens, leading to degraded image characteristics which look like a fog over the entire image, but primarily affect the blacks and dark tones.</p>
<p>Of course, for intermediate tones in the background, interpolation of the above can be used to obtain any tone background desired.</p>
<p>I did really enjoy your discussion of the use of white and black V-flats for manipulation of the edge characteristics of the subjects.  I often use 4&#8242;x6&#8242; V-flats both in both white and crumpled aluminum foil covered  versions, as both reflectors and large flags.  The use of black V-flats for edge modifications for high key lighting is intriguing and will be tried.  My technique of getting a similar effect is to use a large 7&#8242; diameter umbrella directly behind the photographer as the key light (but elevated somewhat, with the center of the umbrella at approximately the photographers head), with no fill light.  That does an excellent job of creating the darker edges on the body/figure.</p>
<p>Many thanks to you for your outstanding articles and links!</p>
<p>Don Becker<br />
<a href="http://www.donbeckerphoto.com" rel="nofollow">http://www.donbeckerphoto.com</a><br />
and<br />
Faculty member and Technical Director<br />
Washington School of Photography<br />
Bethesda, MD 20814<br />
<a href="http://www.wsp-photo.com" rel="nofollow">http://www.wsp-photo.com</a></p>
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		<title>Comment on The 90-Percent Rule Of Lighting In Photography by Anonymous</title>
		<link>http://www.lensdiaries.com/photo-tips/90-percent-rule-lighting-photographic-lighting/comment-page-1/#comment-3619</link>
		<dc:creator>Anonymous</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 22 Jan 2012 19:21:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.lensdiaries.com/?p=3202#comment-3619</guid>
		<description>[...] Rule Of Lighting In Photography is the latest photography tip on LensDiaries.com. Here&#039;s the link: http://www.lensdiaries.com/photo-tip...phic-lighting/  Enjoy and please retweet plus Facebook like! Thanks, rg sends!    __________________ Photographer, [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] Rule Of Lighting In Photography is the latest photography tip on LensDiaries.com. Here&#039;s the link: <a href="http://www.lensdiaries.com/photo-tip...phic-lighting/" rel="nofollow">http://www.lensdiaries.com/photo-tip&#8230;phic-lighting/</a>  Enjoy and please retweet plus Facebook like! Thanks, rg sends!    __________________ Photographer, [...]</p>
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		<title>Comment on Editing Photos vs. Photo Editing, Know the Difference by Editing #Photos vs. Photo Editing, Know the Difference &#124; Lens Diaries #photog &#124; [PbD] Media Blog</title>
		<link>http://www.lensdiaries.com/photo-tips/editing-photos-photo-edit/comment-page-1/#comment-3605</link>
		<dc:creator>Editing #Photos vs. Photo Editing, Know the Difference &#124; Lens Diaries #photog &#124; [PbD] Media Blog</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 14 Jan 2012 15:57:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.lensdiaries.com/?p=2867#comment-3605</guid>
		<description>[...] digital photography became a reality, most people never knew about photo editing or editing&#8230;Via www.lensdiaries.com Share this:ShareFacebookEmailStumbleUponPrintReddit    Categories: Photography Tags:         [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] digital photography became a reality, most people never knew about photo editing or editing&#8230;Via <a href="http://www.lensdiaries.com" rel="nofollow">http://www.lensdiaries.com</a> Share this:ShareFacebookEmailStumbleUponPrintReddit    Categories: Photography Tags:         [...]</p>
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		<title>Comment on The Process Of Taking A Great Photograph by rolandogomez</title>
		<link>http://www.lensdiaries.com/photo-tips/the-process-of-taking-a-great-photograph/comment-page-1/#comment-3604</link>
		<dc:creator>rolandogomez</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 12 Jan 2012 19:59:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.lensdiaries.com/?p=3143#comment-3604</guid>
		<description>Thanks! How about a camera that understands the Zone system automatically? ;)</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks! How about a camera that understands the Zone system automatically? <img src='http://www.lensdiaries.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif' alt=';)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
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		<title>Comment on The Process Of Taking A Great Photograph by Matt</title>
		<link>http://www.lensdiaries.com/photo-tips/the-process-of-taking-a-great-photograph/comment-page-1/#comment-3602</link>
		<dc:creator>Matt</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 12 Jan 2012 03:44:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.lensdiaries.com/?p=3143#comment-3602</guid>
		<description>Points well made. DSLR isn&#039;t dead, yet. And really, I don&#039;t see what the big deal is. Technology moves--when a full-frame interchangeable lens camera comes out, I will be all OVER that! Especially if it uses my current set of lenses. But, it&#039;s still going to be just a light-recording medium on which lenses project light. Whether there is a mirror or a physical shutter is irrelevant. The principles of exposure and composition certainly aren&#039;t going to change. 

DSLRs dying is certainly not news. Now, a 12-stop native dynamic range in a compact camera, with razor thing depth of field? THAT would be news! :)</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Points well made. DSLR isn&#8217;t dead, yet. And really, I don&#8217;t see what the big deal is. Technology moves&#8211;when a full-frame interchangeable lens camera comes out, I will be all OVER that! Especially if it uses my current set of lenses. But, it&#8217;s still going to be just a light-recording medium on which lenses project light. Whether there is a mirror or a physical shutter is irrelevant. The principles of exposure and composition certainly aren&#8217;t going to change. </p>
<p>DSLRs dying is certainly not news. Now, a 12-stop native dynamic range in a compact camera, with razor thing depth of field? THAT would be news! <img src='http://www.lensdiaries.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
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